CHIOS
The whispering sounds of the waves echo in the breeze
as they
reach out and cling to the seashore.
The clear blue sky is filled with sea gulls
flying
freely in the air.
Imagine a place offering escape, shelter, adventure,
and discovery all provided from the natural components that comprise its existence.
CHIOS, the island that links the east with the west, where the old meets the new,
while the key to the present lies in the past.
Location
Chios is the fifth largest island of the Greek islands (842 sq. km.) with a 213 km coastline and a population of approximately 50,000 inhabitants who live in the capital as well as within the the 64 villages.
It is situated in the furthest eastern portion of the Aegean Sea, just a few nautical miles off the Turkish shore of Asia Minor.
Cape Pounda in Turkey and the peninsula of Erythraia where Cesme is, are only 3.5 nautical miles away.
Welcome
to ... ... the fragrant island
Chios
is often called myrovόlos
(fragrant). The port of the island faces East, due to the commercial links that
had always existed with the ports of the East.
The aromas that emerge from the citrus tree blossoms during spring fill the air.
The old is harmoniously combined with the new, and the trip of the senses begins…
...the land of history
Remains
of the glorious Byzantine period are found in the numerous medieval castles,
fortresses and watch towers (called vίgles
in the local dialect) scattered all over the island. One of the most impressive
Byzantine monasteries in Greece is Nέa
Monί,
located in the pine-covered mountains west of Chios Town. The Monastery was
built in the 11th century by order of the Emperor Constantine Monomάchos,
who sent leading architects and the finest materials for its construction from Constantinople. The incredible gold mosaics in the church are considered to be one of the
three most important examples of Byzantine religious art in Greece. The effect of sunlight or candlelight reflecting off the glistering surfaces of the
mosaics, creates an indescribable atmosphere.
...the
land of fertility and mastic
Chios
has fertile plains where fruit, wheat and vegetables are cultivated, rich pine
forests and some bare mountains with stone-built goat and sheep shelters that
may date back to Antiquity. Its well-known product is the mastic, the
sap of the very fragrant schίnos
(pistachia lentiscus) shrubs of various sizes that cover the hills of
the southern part of the island. Mastic is the ancient chewing gum,
which is extracted from pistachia lentiscus, a variety that grows in this part
of Chios and nowhere else in the world. Very much sought after since Antiquity,
mastic is still used as a flavouring and chewing gum, mainly in Arab countries
and the Middle East, where most of the island's production is exported.
...the
land of gastronomy
Chios
has a tradition of fruit preserves or "spoon sweets" as
they are called. The tangerines, rolled pieces of bergamot, bitter orange peel,
tiny unripe eggplants, unripe pistachios or figs, even fragrant citrus blossoms
and the petals of pink roses are cooked in syrup and served on small glass
plates, as a gesture of welcome by locals who have interesting recipes to
share.
...the land of architectural variety
In
Kambos, the area that lies south of the town of Chios, you will see an
extraordinary architectural style: impressive villas and town homes that were
the homes of the Genoese and the Greek gentry, built in the
middle of well-watered fertile grounds. Here, you will get a glimpse of the
glorious past of the island, described by foreign travellers who described the
way of life that the Chians enjoyed during the 16th and 17th century. Built
mainly with the bright ochre and brick red stone from Thymiana, the
neighboring village, the villas of Kambos have vast gardens and cisterns
decorated with white marble columns and reliefs. There are also large “mangano”
- water wheels powered by mules that used to bring water up from the wells. The
impressive arched gates have Genoese coat of arms and the courtyards are paved
with black and white pebbles that create interesting decorative mosaics.
These architectural features are unique, but unfortunately, today many of the
estates are in ruins. A few have been restored and some have been turned into
small hotels or restaurants. It is worth exploring the narrow streets of
Kambos, even getting lost in its maze of alleys and bridges, criss-crossing the
streams and admiring the remnants of the past. Mainly citrus fruit orchards
surround the houses. Citrus fruit and especially a very fragrant indigenous
variety of tangerines was once extremely popular, bringing wealth to the owners
of “perivolia” (orchards in the Chian dialect).
Another unique architectural style is the one of the mastic villages, also known as castle villages. The southern region of the island, which has many exceptionally well-preserved villages built during the years of the Genoese domination (1346-1566), is devoted to the cultivation of mastic. The “mastichochoria” (mastic villages) as they are called, are rare examples of medieval architecture: the two story stone houses have no windows on the first floor façade that faces out the village. Built in the form of a coil with narrow inner lines and arches linking many houses, those villages had only one entrance.
Mesta and especially Olympi, are the best examples of this extraordinary architecture, while Pyrgi, the largest of the Mastichochoria, has old and modern houses decorated with “xysta” (scratched walls), as referred to by the locals, a technique probably learned from the Genoese.
In the northern part of the island, the architecture is very different. Here, the less wealthy villages have simpler stone houses. The houses’ architecture is a result of the local materials used by local people. It is thus pure folklore architecture. The walls are made of stone and the houses usually have a ground floor for the animals and another floor on the upper level for the people. The stairs were usually external, giving access to a small terrace which, in turn, gave access to the rest of the house.
The
traditional house of the northern part of Chios had one room. The roof was
made of soil. There 
were carved
pine trees or cedar trunks. Smaller wood was put on the top of these and then
people added seaweed and soil. In order to decorate the roof, they placed a
few reeds on top. In the room, there was a sort of loft situated in a corner
of a lightly elevated ground. It was made of wood and was used as a bed. People
made mattresses by taking plant leaves, drying them in the sun and then putting
them in sacks. The table was pretty low and it was called “sofras”.
There were not chairs or any other type of sitting devices. They often used
trunks to sit on. The fireplace was situated in a corner of the room. There
were two shelves on top. The locals put the oil and the salt on the first one
and the ewer of water that was drawn from the wells on the other. In the
eastern side of the house, there was another shelf on the wall where they
placed icons. The floor was made of wood. We usually find wooden and wild
trunks. The most interesting examples are in Volissos, the majestic yet
deserted Anavatos, which is built on a steep hill and Avgonyma,
where Chians as well as foreigners have begun purchasing and restoring old
houses.
Chios has been subjected to a stream of cultures over the course of time.
Eight thousand years of continual human survival have left their imprint on the island’s landscape, its stone villages, stalactite caverns and mountainous terrain. Nonetheless, it has managed to maintain its identity...
The Island’s History: Live the island's past through the present
Chios is an island where the historic past is still living in the present. One can find traces of all different eras. There is evidence that the island had inhabitants since the Stone Age.
c. 3000 BC: Neolithic findings in the Cave of Ághio Gálas (a village located in the northwest region of the island).
c. 2600-2000 BC: Early findings in the area of Emboriós (which lies in the southeast region of Chios). The first king of Chios was Amphiklos or Amphialos, a man that came to the island following an oracle. Then, the Ionians from Asia Minor inhabited Samos and Chios, connecting thus the island with the rest of the Ionian towns of that time. Around the 7th century BC, Chios not only flourishes in the maritime sector, but in other sectors as well. It is said that Homer passed by the island and that Chios inspired the Homeric epics.
Chios, unlike other places, had no colonies. The Chians were creating what was called in Greek “emboría” (meaning trading posts) and they were very famous for their wine and mastic, two of their most popular products which contributed to the flourishment of the island flourish.
c.1600-1100 BC: An ancient settlement found in the southern part of the island, in the area of Fana, is probably a remnant of the Mycenaean period.
600 BC: Around
600 BC, the “Great Clause” (Megali Ritra) was established on the
island. The first democracy in the world was based on this law. It is said
that Solon, prior to establishing the democratic laws and institutions in Athens, visited Chios and used a great deal of the democratic principles of the Great
Clause.
493 BC: Destruction of Chios by the Persians. Chios then became an ally of the Athenians in the Athenian Alliance. The Chians enjoyed prosperity over the next few years.
431 BC-146 BC: At the beginning of the Peloponnesian war, the Chians were allied with the Athenians until the defeat of Sicily, when they joined forces with the Spartans. When the Antalkidios Peace was signed, Chios was again allied with the Athenians. At the time of Alexander the Great, there was a Macedonian garrison in Chios. When Alexander passed away, his successors took over and for Chios, the period of decline was just beginning.
146 BC: Imposition of Roman rule.
250 AD: Martyrdom of St Isidoros during the expulsion of Christians. It is said that the mastic tree (called Schínos in the Chian dialect) started to cry when it ‘saw’ the Saint’s body dragged under it.
c. 650 AD: Destruction of Chios by the Arabs.
1042-1055 AD: The Emperor Constantine Monomachos keeps his promise and begins building the Nea Moni Monastery. The Emperor had promise the two monks that found the Holy Icon of the Virgin hanging from branch of myrtle, that should he regain his throne (as they predicted), he would furnish the Monastery with a dowry.
1089 AD:
Raid by Turkish pirates.
1124-5 AD: Raid by the Venetians.
1170-71 AD: Second raid by the Venetians.
1204 AD: The Francs threaten Chios.
1261 AD: According to the Treaty of Nympheon Chios is given to the Genoese, who are permitted by the emperor to maintain an establishment there, including a palace, a church, gardens, public baths, dwelling places and their own consul.
1292 AD: Raid of Chios by the Sicilian, Roger de Loria.
1300 AD: Raid of Chios by the Turks.
1303 AD: Raid by the Catalan, Roger da Flor.
1304-1329AD: Chios comes under the temporary rule of the Genoese. A treaty with the Emperor concedes to the Genoese a ten-year right to “protect” the island provided it remains under Byzantine sovereignty.
1346 - 1566 AD: Genoese rule. Chios prospers during the Genoese period. A commercial Genoese firm called Maóna, maintains control of the island’s commerce. Although they oppress the inhabitants, they manage to organize the commerce of mastic and the rest of the products. They bring to the island the cultivation of citrus trees and the raising of silkworms. Castle villages are created in the South to protect mastic production and mansions are established in the area of Kambos. The population increases and the standard of living is very high. Although the Turks conquered the Byzantine Empire and attacked Chios as well, the Genoese manage to keep them away.
1566 - 1821
AD: Turkish rule. The Chians are still oppressed, however, they are
granted privileges due to the production of mastic. The Turks imposed taxes on
the Chians and forced them to pay the taxes with mastic. When the Greek
Revolution against the Turks broke out in 1821, the Chians did not participate.
1822 AD: When Lykourgos Logothetis, a Greek rebel from Samos, came to Chios, he tried to free the island with the help of Antonis Bournias. This effort failed and Admiral Kapudan Pasha Kara Ali brought the Turkish fleet in the island and had started to burn, destroy and massacre the Chians over a period of 15 days in order to teach them a lesson for their disobedience and ungratefulness. Over 25,000 people lose their lives during the Massacre of Chios. Soon thereafter, Constantine Kanaris, from the neighboring island of Psara, leads his fleet to Chios and burns the Turkish flagship in the port of the island. Admiral Kapudan Pasha Kara Ali, as well as other Turkish officials, lose their lives. They were all buried in the Turkish cemetery that lies in the Castle of Chios town.
1823 - 1912 AD: The Chians that had managed to escape from the Turks come back in the island in 1832 and begin to rebuild their lives. The harsh freeze of 1852 destroyed the crop while the earthquake of 1881 destroyed everything that had been left standing in addition to taking the lives of 3,500 people. Nevertheless, the Chians did not give up and in 1912, the island was liberated and was united with the Greek State.
1939 - 1945 AD: During the 2nd World War, the Chians fought against the Germans and people escape to the Middle East. Chios achieved its liberation in 1944 along with the rest of the Greek State.
Just as in the past, Chians try to make the best out of everything regardless of the suffering they have endured over the centuries.
Chios is a very rich island and currently maintains a high standard
of living as well as a rich culture.
“Chora” – the town of Chios
The Town of Chios, which is called "Chora" by the
locals, was built in the central east part of the island like all the adjoining
in Asia Minor islands. Chios is situated opposite to the peninsula of Erythraia from which is separated with a narrow straight (channel), a position that proves the
close connection between Chios and Ionia.
Chora is built almost in the center of the east coast and is the most significant harbor in the island.
According to archeological finds the island has been inhabited since 6000B.C. Chios town was built by Ions little before 1000 B.C. So, Chora has a history of more than 3000 years time. During this period Chios enjoyed great prosperity but also a decline.
The Town of Chios has a population of about 29000 people and is the largest area of the prefecture, for this reason is considered to be the administrative, spiritual, cultural, educational and business center of Chios prefecture.
Chios Town, as an important educational and spiritual center that it is, has many excellent schools of all degrees of education, from nursery schools to lyceums, libraries (Adamandios Korais library) and the great Spiritual and Cultural Center of the island (Homerion), where conferences and councils of any kind are held, cultural manifestations, theatrical performances and generally many different artistic activities.
The Town of Chios (“Chora”) is the place, where the most trading transactions take place because of the big market with many stores that have multi and different products of any kind. It gives great opportunities for entertainment and relaxation. Finally, it has a well -organized tourist substructure that covers the visitors needs, depended on the island's environment and potentiality.
The harbor is connected coastal with the other two islands of the prefecture, Psara and Inousses, also with the biggest harbors in Athens and Greece generally, and with Turkey. As a result we have a great trading development and frequent journeys and trips both from tourists and residents.
Today the
Town has kept the basic town planning schedule without big changes during the
course of time, with the castle, the harbor, the streets and the settlements.
But the destruction of 1822 and the terrible earthquake of 1881, with the
general reconstruction in postwar years have ruined the historic architectural
physiognomy of the Town.
For all its extent, the Town
affords a unique opportunity for wandering by feet among the small streets of
the settlements and the central arterial roads.
In the center of the Town is the famous "Vounaki" square, where the
biggest part of the area is taken up by the Public Park. From the center of the
square, the "Kenenti" street leads to the official gate of the
medieval Castle of Chios.
The building of the Castle was at the end of the 10th century and the beginning of 11th in the area of the ancient town and very close to the harbor. By the time the Castle was built and until today is constantly inhabited and has kept the main characteristics of the old castle, narrow streets, many ruins and buildings of various ages.
Near the square there are remarkable buildings that were rescuded by the time of the Turkish domination in the island, the Bairakli Mosque, the Osmanie Mosque and the Metzitie Mosque, where is situated the Byzantine Museum of Chios. Around there is also the temple of Agios Vasilios Petrokokkinon, where by the end of the 16th century housed the cathedral of Chios and the church of Saint George.
In the sound part of the square is extended the main road of the town, Aplotaria, where are located all the trade shops and markets. The most buildings here are old mansions of the 19th and the beginning of 20th century. At the end of the main road to the east side, the road leads to Secondary school, which was established in 1792, the Cathedral and Korais Library that is 13.5000 books strong and in the first floor is roofed the Art gallery and the Folklore Museum of Chios.
The settlements of the south part of Chora were first inhabited around 20th century and since then has shown expansionist tendencies for the town. In this area is also situated the Archeological Museum, the University of Aegean, the Nautical Museum and the central Sports Field of Chios.
Finally on the periphery of the Town there are buildings of the Genoan times, the one called Kamenos Pyrgos and the Gothic Tower.
Historic Monuments of Chios
The Castle of Chios
The Castle or Fortress of Chios lies north of the center of town. When it was built, it enclosed the entire town of Chios, soon thereafter, however, the town expanded beyond the Castle walls.
The first architectural phase of the monument dates back to the Byzantine period (the end of the 10th century), however, almost nothing has survived of the original fortification. Its entrance is through the Central Gate (“Porta Maggiore”) located at the south end, which was reconstructed by the Venetians in 1694. In the enclosed area, near the gate, stands the two-story building known as the Ioustiniani Palace. Two of the most important structures inside the Castle are the Kria Vrisi (Cold Fountain), a semi sub-terranean water cistern built under the Genoese and the massive tower known as “Kulas.” the Castle was surrounded by a wide moat that has now been filled.
The present form of the Castle is a result of a series of additions, reinforcements and repairs that were made by the Genoese, Venetians and Turks beginning in the early 14th century and onward until the Greek War of Independence. The Castle suffered severe disasters in the bombardment of 1828 and the earthquake of 1881 and was seriously damaged at the beginning of the 20th century. The entire southern portion of the Castle was demolished in order to construct the port.
In recent years, excavation research was carried out over the course of house construction within the area. This research brought to light important evidence regarding the morphology and history of the fortress.
Over the course of the recent restorations work, the main entrance of the Castle has been consolidated, the façade of the building called “Dark Dungeon” has been cleared, its masonry has been repaired and its roof reinforced. The vault of the entrance of the Castle has also been consolidated, recent plastering has been removed and the wall masonry has been repaired. The joints of the stones of the SE bastion were also repaired and the passageway on the walls was cleared over the main gate, revealing the pavement. Nowadays, residents inhabit the Castle.
Nea Moni Monastery
The Nea Moni
Monastery was built in the 11th century (around 1042 – 1056) and was
dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. It covers an area of
approximately 17,000 m2 and is located in the central region of the island of Chios. The buildings comprising the Nea Moni Monastery include the main church
(“catholicon”), 2 smaller churches, a table or “trapeza”
which was the monks’ dining area, the monks’ quarters (“kelia”)
and underground tanks (“kinsternes”) that were built to collect
water. In the northwest corner of the Monastery, there stands a strong defensive
tower. A tall, stone-wall surrounds the complex of the Monastery.
According to monastic tradition, the Emperor Constantine Monomachos founded the Monastery to repay three Chian monks for predicting that his banishment to Lesvos was temporary and he would eventually return to the throne. The three monks discovered the miraculous Icon of the Virgin Mary hanging on a branch of myrtle at the Monastery’s current location. This was where they originally built the small church with a few quarters. The Emperor Monomachos provided the Monastery with property and revenues, something that was often very unusual for the Byzantine financial system. The Nea Moni Monastery became one of the wealthiest and most well known monasteries in the Aegean. This prosperity continued until the Turks occupied the island in 1822 and looted the Monastery, henceforth the beginning of its financial decline.
The main church or “catholicon” is located in the central point of the Monastery.
It is comprised of a main church, the “eso-narthex” and the “exo-narthex”.
The architecture of the main temple is the well known “island” octagonal type.
The only examples of this architecture in existence today are in Chios and Cyprus.
The other buildings contained within the limits of the stone walls include:
a) The Temple of the Holy Cross – a small temple built on the side of the entrance gate which stores the skeletal remainings of the martyrs and fighters of the Massacre of Chios.
b) The Temple of Aghios Panteleimonas – a small temple on the right side of the road that leads to the Tower. It is dated around 1889.
c) The Museum – the exhibition of the relics of the Monastery was opened to the public in 1992.
d) The mosaics of the Nea Moni Monastery date back to the 11th century and comprise a portion of the Monastery’s dowry. Today, it is one of the three remaining collections left in Greece of the mid-Byzantine period and it remains in relatively good condition. Key characteristics of the technique used to create these mosaics pertain to the dramatic expressions and monastic simplicity in its entirety. The golden background occupies a large portion of the surface drawings and as the light reflects on it, it enhances the transcendency of the depictions and shapes as if they are moving on a superior and spiritual world. Their exquisite quality in addition to the fact that they comprise the work of artists directly connected with the imperial workshops in Constantinople, place them amongst the most significant creations of Byzantine art.
The Monastery is listed in the monuments protected by UNESCO’s World Heritage.
“Kambos” – the ‘perivolia’ district
Kambos is
located south of the town of Chios and encompasses an area 7 kilometers in
length and a width of approximately 2 kilometers. The literal translation of
the word Kambos is plane (connoting a leveled surface), however, this does not
begin to depict the splendor of the evergreen trees, the lusciously green
countryside and the thick, plentiful citrus trees contained within each
orchard.
Over the course of time, various cultures have dominated Chios, thereby reinforcing the fact that the island has been the crossroad for many civilizations, a connection between the east and the west.
Kambos has a
history of civilizations that have swept through its estates and evidence of
foreign influence has been engraved within its buildings, stone walls and
family coat of arms made of marble above each estate entrance.
Kambos’ history dates back to the Byzantine period and continues with the Genoese and Turkish conquerors that have passed. The prosperity of Kambos is attributed to the Genoese domination dating 1346 – 1566. The Genoese took advantage of the plentiful water deposits in the soil contained within the Kambos area. They imported citrus trees and introduced the island inhabitants to the systematic cultivation of the trees, thereby increasing wealth by exporting golden fruit abroad, amongst other goods.
The wealth that was initially generated in the 14th century is evident even today. Within the limits of Kambos are approximately 200 historical estates, each of which displays a splendorous mansion, auxiliary buildings, a wheel powered well, cistern, pebble paved courtyard and orchard. The Massacre of Chios in 1822, the earthquake of 1881 and the abandonment of Kambos estates have left a great number of estates in ruins.
Today, in an effort to preserve this cultural inheritance, renovations have been completed and inhabitants have either taken up permanent residence or utilize the estates as lodges. Kambos has been characterized as a traditional settlement (paradosiakos ikismos), thus limiting construction and renovation within the area. Renovations must be performed by taking into consideration the protective legislature of the area.
Unique – only in Chios!
Mavra Volia beach
Mavra Volia is considered to be by most people, the best beach on the island, if not one of the most exquisite.
The beach is a short distance from the port of Emborios and features deep, crystal blue waters and smoothly shaped black basaltic pebbles, hence its name.
These pebbles are the result of the lava that exploded and covered the area from the nearby volcano many, many years ago.
Mastic – the trademark of Chios
The “Wounded” Tree
If
a trademark were to be established for Chios, then surely it would be the mastic
tree. It is a gift and at the same time a curse since it has
always been the bone of contention for conquerors. This evergreen tree called “Schinos”,
belongs to the botanical family “Pistachia”. The average growth
of the tree ranges from 6 to 10 feet tall and it begins to produce mastic at
the age of 5 to 6 years old. This amazing tree thrives within the
21 mastic villages of southern Chios only.
The oldest references to mastic have been traced back to Herodotes in the 5th Century B.C. The people of Ancient Greece chewed mastic to whiten their teeth and if you think about it, mastic was the unique chewing gum even then! During the Roman period, toothpicks were made from the mastic tree and the use of mastic spread to the harems of the East. Tradition says that God blessed the mastic tree which began to "cry" in 250 A.D., when St. Isidoros cried out in pain during his martyrdom.
The “Magical Tears”
Mastic
has a plethora of qualities and uses. It absorbs cholesterol, is
an antibacterial acts as an oral antiseptic, aids digestion, tightens the gums,
heals wounds and scientists recently discovered that when it is administrated
in small doses it cures stomach ulcers.
Aside from the medical aspects, these magical tears are used in distilleries to produce mastic liqueur and mastic-flavored ouzo called mastichato.
There are also culinary uses for mastic. For example, mastic is used in baking and in sweets such as biscuits, mastic ice cream, and mastic sweets of the spoon.
In a refined form, it is also used as the primary ingredient for toothpaste, shampoos, perfumes, in frankincense, and varnish.
“Kendos”- The Incision
The
collection of mastic begins when the mastic producers clean the area under the
tree and they cover it with white clay so that the tears will stay clear and
dry faster as they fall to the ground. The “kendos” (process of
making incisions to the tree) begins in June and lasts through September.
The
mastic producers make an incision along the tree trunk in the shape of an arch
with the “kentitiri” (incision tool). Their day begins early
before sunrise and 
they make
their way to the fields with their donkeys in one of the most picturesque
scenes ever seen on the island those days. The mastic growers are suitably
dressed and well equipped in their endeavor, racing against the sun, trying to
avoid his presence.
The curing of the mastic tree ends before the sun reaches its highest point. When the tears have been coagulated, the mastic laborers use the “timitiri” to gather the precious crystals. Every little piece of this natural product is collected even if it is mixed with dust.
The narrow streets of the mastic villages come alive as the mastic collectors start the “tahtarisma” (sifting), the cleaning of the crystals with soap and cold water, the drying and the scratching of the mastic tears. This is a social event.
If you visit the mastic villages during that period you will feel the warmth of the people prevailing in every corner of the village.
After all, isn't this the real magic of mastic?
Ouzo, an ...old story
The Chian
ouzo was produced in early times and played a primary role in the Chians’
social lives. Originally, it was considered an alcoholic beverage
for men, however, throughout the course of time, it was served during special
occasions, such as welcoming guest, bidding farewell as well as an aperitif
prior to serving dinner. Seafood traditionally accompanies ouzo, thus,
creating a strong and delightful combination.
The island of Chios, known as the cradle of spices and aromas, produces a variety of soft and smooth ouzo, which depends on the recipe used. The traditional ingredients include “glykanissos” (aniseed) combined with “maratho” (fennel), “koliandro” (cilantro) and the unique mastic.
Clearly disassociated from the local tsipouro (raki) and from souma (suma), which is mainly produced by figs. Chian ouzo is still distilled primarily in the small copper stills (“kazania”) of traditional family manufacturers.
What is Ouzo
The classic
Greek drink Ouzo begins as alcohol made from grape skins or other local
produce. It is then brought together with herbs and other ingredients,
including star anise, coriander, cloves, angelica root and even cinnamon and
lime blossom. The mixture is boiled in a copper still and regulated by a
taster. The resulting liquid is cooled and stored for several months before it
is diluted to about 80 proof or 40 percent alcohol. However, homemade ouzo can
be a deliriously strong 80 percent alcohol.
Ouzo is usually served as an aperitif, but is also used in some mixed drinks and cocktails.
When mixing Ouzo with water, it turns whitish and opaque. The reason is that the anise oil dissolves and becomes invisible when mixed with a conventional alcohol content, but as soon as the alcohol content is reduced, the essential oils transform into white crystals, which you cannot see through.
Combined with ktapodaki (octopus), atherina (whitebait), throumba elia (a special kind of olive), toursia (pickles), tyri (cheese) and a great number of other mezedes, Chian Ouzo can guarantee you magical nights by the crystal sea of the island, along the shores of Ionia.
Today...
Ouzo is protected by the European Union as an exclusive Greek product. As a traditional drink, it is subject to half the tax imposed on most other EU spirits.
The “Golden Apples” of Esperides – Bergamot, Oranges & Tangerines
Chios
is called "myrovolos", meaning fragrant. That should
not surprise you, since the fragrances of the verdant “perivolia”
(orchards) in the district of Kambos surround you from the very
first moment you begin strolling through the green nucleus of the island.
Narrow streets, high stone walls, thick, green leaves will emerge
everywhere and surround you with their precious aroma.
The cultivation of citrus trees was a new culture imported by the Genoans (1348-1566), who were cruel conquerors yet clever traders. As soon as they realized that the evergreen trees thrive on the water enriched soil deposits, they started to import them from Italy. Kambos exhibited these characteristics primarily, and was thereby transformed into a huge, orange orchard. The Chians also imported orange trees from Africa, since the tree's cultivation was so successful. It is worth noting here that the tangerine trees were not imported by the Genoans, as many people want to believe, but by the Chian family of Horemi who imported them from India around 1860-62. They were first cultivated in the family's orchard and were then planted in Kambos.
The cultivators collect the fruits one by one and put them into boxes. Tangerine collection begins in November, while oranges are collected in December. The cultivators either sell their "golden fruits", or bring them to the Agricultural Association of Chios' Citrus Cultivators and to other small sized manufactures in order to produce juice. For centuries, fruits were sold by piece. The collectors put them in groups of five and delivered them to traders. The German conquerors introduced the weighing method and it was so practical that it is stil used today.
Chian tangerines are unique and they are considered to be a distinguished variety. Grocery stores and farm stands sell these fruits as "Chian tangerines".
Kambos is a region where the water deposits favor the cultivation of the "Esperides' Golden Apples", as the ancient Greeks used to call the oranges. When one wanders the various paths of Kambos, one can use their sense of smell and imagination to 'see' the orchards through the huge, stone walls that surround them in order to keep the south winds and the winter's cold away. The trees are extremely sensitive to cold weather and high winds. The cultivators have paid a high price as a result of this sensitivity and have suffered major losses. Their experience has taught them to light small fires in between the trees on their estates in order to generate warmth and protect the trees. The leaves of the trees also create a green 'roof' that keeps the warmth of the fire between them and thus, protect the crop.
Delicatessen: the “spoon-sweets” - an old story...
From ancient times, Chios was well known for the excellent quality of its
products, especially for its abundance and variety of seasonal fruits. Grapes
and figs constituted the base of this variety which was gradually enriched by
almonds, pistachios, walnuts, apples, quince, sour cherries and cherries, as
well as citrus fruits, in other words, bitter oranges, famous chian tangerines,
oranges and bergamots.
In order to
extend the consumption of these seasonal fruits as long as possible, many
preservation methods were applied. The safest and simplest method turned out
to be the boiling and the preservation of the fruits in
some kind of syrup. The creation of various recipes depends
on the herbs, the spices or other flavoring substances added in the boiling
water. When refined sugar came into play, the use of the ancient Mediterranean sweetening substances, such as honey, molasses, carob honey, etc, gradually
declined.
The traditional spoon sweet recipes were primarily used in the production of homemade sweets of the spoon. However, as time passed, these traditional recipes formed the base of the production of spoon sweets by large and well organized manufacturers.
The Chian “Sweet of the Spoon”
The spoon sweet played a central part in social life, since there was some kind of semiotics that associated the different facts of life with the color and the kind of sweets offered in each occasion. Therefore, people served white sweets at marriage announcements, colored sweets in celebrations, dark-colored sweets in mourning and so on.
The Mastic Sweet
On its way
from the East, sugar brought with it its secrets. The Persian and Arabic
recipes were combined with ours to create a delightful tasty result.
The Chios mastic, an exclusive product of the island, combined with sugar, gave birth to the spoon sweet – mastic, also known as “hyporvrychio”, a different and more intensely flavored form of vanilla. Since the last century, this kind of mastic has been spread in the Greek Diaspora gentry’s estates and mainly in Constantinople as the welcome sweet by the name of the “White Sweet.” It is still the official treat in the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate (Archbishopric) today.
